Road Trip Day 1: From Agadir to Tafraout

So we decided to go for a belated Christmas holiday. With a grande taxi we went from Agadir to Tiznit, which wasn’t a very interesting drive with plain fields on either side with the shadows of the mountains to your far left. I recognized Tiznit by it’s great wall of the medina. At the time I was eager to get to Tafraout, but otherwise I wouldn’t have hesitated in lingering around the medina for a while before moving forwards. But it was getting late and the taxis were running more and more infrequently, so at last we cought a taxi that would take us to our destination; the village of Tafraout in the Ameln Valley. The landscape started to change from the wide dry plains, to lusher hilly areas and finally a sensation of confusion creeps on you as the landscape is a mix of green hills, tiny forrests, dark frightening mountains looming in the distance and more inviting and softer ones on the other side welcoming you. One minute everything is beige and dusty and the next you’re surrounded by fertility, as if it were the cradle of all life.

The road took us further into the impressive wall-liked hills that made me expect a clan of native Americans with feathers and bows suspicially and readily looking down on you. But of course there wasn’t. This is Morocco, and it’s 2010.

Then the serious ride started – and oh my god what a ride. The narrow and very windy road took us through curves and bends not made for a vehicle to drive. But there we were and darkness crept upon us. I was amazed to see the little lights from houses scattered along the mountain sides, far from just about anything. The further inland we got, the higher it got and the more magnifiscent the scenery became. Then my ears started to pop. To anyone planning to travel this road; prepare for a roller coaster drive without rails. Just as I thought that ”this is it, now I’m going to die”, the road straightened out a bit, like an answer to a prayer. The side effect: the driver speeds up and I was once again friends with Sir Death.

After about three hours we finally arrived in the safe haven of Tafraout, which was all that I expected except for the bitter cold that I wasn’t prepared for at all. We checked in to a ”hotel” (more like a battered hoste, but it was cheap and clean enough), went for dinner and got to bed pretty early. It was absolutely freezing in the room, but thanks to a long day we both fell asleep and woke up even colder in the morning.

Today I was a Tourist

Another beautiful day and I had woken up early for once, so I "gently" woke up Rachid and told him that "toady we're going to the kasbah". A kasbah is a fortified granary, but this one was destroyed by the earthquake in 1960 so only the outer walls and some piles of stones was left. But the reason why people go to the kasbah is because it's situated on a hill overlooking the whole of Agadir, the Atlantic and the surrounding hills.

We strolled around the ruins, enjoying the view and clear air. It's sad what happened in 1960. Some 15-20,000 people were killed and all off Agadir was destroyed. The kasbah is one of the few remains from the disaster. Today Agadir is acompletely different city, clearly built to satisfy sun worshiping westerners. The buildings resembles more those from a south European holiday destination than the "mystic" oriental of Morocco. It's all white and clean, all so superficial, and it makes me sad. Still, it's a nice place to linger for a few hours and do some shopping.

When the sun started to become less warming we decided for our descent from the hill, which was made on a half paved path that criss-crossed down the hill. The shadows formed fantastic patterns on the hills and mountains around us and I wished I was a better photographer. I think I will study the art on my free time. Morocco is after all, a photographer's dream destination. It would be stupid to waste the oportunities presented to me when they come, just because I've been too lazy to learn my own camera.

I still haven't ridden a Moroccan camel yet. God knows I've had plenty opportunities. The poor camels are being led around the beaches and other touristy places to offer rides. They are wonderful creatures really. I mean, what other animal can you compare it with? They're stubborn as hell too, and quite uncomfortable until you get the hang of it. One day I think I'll have my own camel. How cool would that be!

...And a Happy New Year in Agadir

Stupid me got my wallet stolen on the bus. I didn’t keep my bad tight enough and then suddenly it was gone. Great, VISA-card, driving licence, money, gone. Luckily we got to borrow some money from Muhammed until mum could send what was left on my account via Western Union. So now I'm waiting for my new VISA-card, although I'm not sure how I will recieve it since it seems nearly impossibleto get a P.O. Box around here. The "misfortune" put me down for a couple of days, but what can you do eh.

And then New Year was upon us. There was some kinda big party at a camping not too far from here, but neither of us was too thrilled to go, so instead we went with Mustafa and Elena to Agadir where we had a few beers and watched the fireworks from the beach. It was a nice enough evening.

I haven't made any New Year Resolution yet, and I don't think I will. I keep tending on breaking them anyways, so I will simply make the best out of 2010; pass my exams, travel some, get to my dear Anna's wedding in June, go to Sweden for the summer and hopefully get married (one way or another) to the best man in the world.

Mustafa, Rachid, Elena and me.

First month in Morocco

I can't believe I've been in Morocco for one month already. It's the end of October and all is well. Things are more than well really, I'm still happy as can be and wouldn't change a thing in the world as it is now. Moving to Morocco and to Rachid is one of the best choices I've made in my life so far. We are getting installed in our small apartment; the tiny garden is growing healthily, we got ourselves a fridge and a stove and now there's not much we need to be comfortable. Well, a proper toilet would be nice of course, since I'm not used to the hole-in-the-floor-toilets that are the common thing here in Morocco. I suppose that anyone from back home would agree that it's definitely nicer to have a toilet to sit on instead of having to squat every time. But hey, I'm not complaining. Moving to a new country takes to get accustomed to new things, and if a little squatting is what it takes to continue to stay happy, then so be it!
We've been to see Rachid's family. It was great meeting them but I regret not knowing enough arabic to be able to talk to them, but insha'allah I will learn it in the future. If all goes as planned, my mum, darling Anton, my nan and her partner will come to visit in mid November.

I'm really looking forward to them coming here. I'm sure they will find many things here alien, but I'm also sure they will enjoy it, just as I will enjoy their stay (and of course all the goodies they will bring from Sweden - things that I of course already have on my mental list!). I'm also sure that certain family members will be less concerned about me when they get proof that I do live a good life here, and that I am, in fact, very very happy. I wish that my dad and the rest of my brothers and sisters will be able to come vist soon too. Do I need to remind them that the fishing here is supposedly great (I wouldn't know since I don't eat and/or kill animals ; )?

And speaking of food. A couple of days ago we went to the souk, and I tried my very first Aknari, a delicious fruit that grows on certain cactuses here in Morocco. It tastes like some mix between pears and melon and contains hard seeds that you apparently can make really really expensive oil from. The same day Rachid tried to convince me of drinking a darkish foul smelling hot soup, which is made of... behold; snails. The horrible smell stayed in my nostrils all night. Ewwww!

About a week ago we found a skinny black stray cat that we took in. His name is Shasha Marley, is about two months old and is wearing my bead bracelet as a collar. He has gained some weight and is constantly either in my lap, on my chest or on my shoulder. Lately he has started to spend some more time with Rachid too, but my guess is that it's because he ususally gives him food ; )

I miss everyone, especially Linda who is pregnant. I really wish that I could be there for her, but I hope that she knows that she is always in my heart and mind. I can't wait for her and the kids to come visit once the baby is born and properly installed into the world!

Tomorrow I'll be going to Agadir to run a few arrends, and will also try and get a post box here in Taghazout so that everyone that loves me back in Sweden can send me tons of snus and salty licorice : P

Love you all!